Sunday, 13 September 2015

Red LED taillight underneath the seat - Suzuki T250J

I purchased a red LED taillight a while ago from ebay. Taillight came with two M4x40 screws, washers and nuts. I had a clear one in my Kawasaki KDX 125 back in the day.

I was going buy a Bates style taillight and mount it to the rear fender but decided to go with this one since they seem to be quite popular these days and I wanted something different. I decided to mount it between the rear fender and seat.

Red LED taillight from ebay.
Back side.
I started by disassembling the seat. Seat cover was attached with a strip to the seat pan. Strip was easy to remove by simply pulling it although you had to be careful not to tear the seat cover with the clips in the strip. 

Disassembled Suzuki GT 250 seat.
Once I removed the foam off the seat pan I drilled two 11 mm holes to the rear end of it. I then welded two hex weld nuts around them with my MAG welder.

I ground the hex weld nuts flat before welding them.
I fastened the weld nut with a screw to keep it in position
while welding. Lip helped with the positioning.
Hex weld nuts welded in place.
Next step was to make a suitable bracket for the taillight. I decided to use 2 mm stainless steel sheet as a material. I used two M8x16 socket head cap screws to mount the bracket underneath the seat. I replaced the two M4x40 screws which came with the taillight since they were a bit too long with two M4x35 socket head cap screws.

Stainless steel brackets and fasteners.
Measurements for the taillight bracket.
Test fitting.

Tuesday, 8 September 2015

Brat style rear fender - Suzuki T250J

I wanted to make a small and simple brat style rear fender for my T250J. The bike came with a shortened front fender which was in a good enough condition to use as blank.

Suzuki T250J front fender.
I started by drilling out all small rivets which hold the two pieces of the fender together. I also made the rivet holes bigger by drilling them. I decided to use M6 screws so I used a 6,5 mm drill bit. I then traced an arc to the fender with a paperboard template.

A paperboard template helped to trace an arc to the fender.
I used a battery-powered angle grinder made by Makita with 1 mm thick cutting disc to cut the arc. Once that was done I removed burrs with a sanding machine.

Cut fender, a battery-powered Makita angle grinder
and a sanding machine.
Next step was to make proper brackets to hold the fender in place. I decided to use 2 mm aluminium sheet as a material. I used M6x16 socket head cap screws, washers and M6 nyloc nuts to hold the brackets on the fender. Two M8x45 hexagon head screws hold the upper brackets and a M8x20 the right lower bracket on the frame.

Upper and lower brackets and fasteners made out of
2 mm aluminium sheet.
Measurements for upper brackets.
Measurements for right lower bracket.
Brat style fender ready to be mounted to my T250J.

The bike came with an unused Michelin 3.25-18 59S M45 E2 tire so I decided to use one as a front tire also. I bought a Michelin 3.00-18 52S M45 E2 tire from my local motorcycle parts dealer Euro Motor Center. 

Old tires were in a pretty bad condition. Front tire was a factory installed Inoue 3.00-18. Rear tire was a pain in the ass to remove as it was dried and cracked and wouldn't like to bend over the rim. Motion Pro tire irons helped a lot to remove those tires.

Michelin 3.00-18 52S M45 E2 front tyre and 3.25-18 59S rear tyre

Side view with new tyres and fenders.